Perpignan, I Do
Perpignan, France - April 2025
Earlier this month I flew from Istanbul to Paris with my cousin, taking the long way to Perpignan in the south of France. Following her surgery I wanted to make sure she got off on her return home okay. I then took the train from Charles de Gaulle to Perpignan. Rather, I took 3 trains. 2 locals and 1 longer direct. I finished the journey with an uber ride that should have taken 5 minutes, but instead took an hour because the driver couldn't find the street. We drove around in circles on narrow little streets. I started the journey at 3:30am and reached my Airbnb at 9:30pm. Like I said, the long way.
I was exhausted, hungry and cranky. But there was a bright spot among the draining travel day, and I would be remiss if I didn't acknowledge it. I had changed trains and reached the next stop on the local (which, as you know, stops at every station). As we approached a gentleman noticed that I seemed a little lost and asked if he could help. It turns out, I was on the wrong connection. Instead of trying to explain (to the dim witted American) how to correct my mistake, he hopped off the train with my suitcase, and I followed carrying my weekender. He scurried up some stairs, then down some others and very nicely said, "this is where you should catch the next train", and proceeded to explain what stop I should get off next. He then went to the original platform to await the next train. I was headed in the complete opposite direction, and this frenchman interrupted his travel to make sure I got to the right place. In America the French are often portrayed as snobbish. That couldn't be farther from the truth. And not just this guy - shop owners, servers, people you meet on the street - they have all been so warm and welcoming, even if they're just saying they don't speak English.
I have now been in Perpignan for a few weeks and I absolutely love it. I could live here. Truly. I picked the perfect location. My neighborhood (shown above) is so charming, and everything is at my fingertips. I made friends with a boutique owner and we sat and chatted for close to an hour. There are restaurants, cafes, shops, markets galore. This is the kind of city I belong in. I plan to return, often. If you've never been, I can't recommend it highly enough. French allure, beautiful, affordable and friendly. In a week I head to Charleville-Mezieres in northern France, where I'll stay a month. After that I may have to rearrange my plans and spend my last month in France back in this wonderful gem of a city. I'll keep you posted.