Charleville-Mezieres. Long Name, Delightful City.
Charleville-Mezieres, France - June 2025
Charleville-Mezieres: Long name, delightful city. Well, I can’t really say if the whole city is delightful because I never left my neighborhood. But what I did experience was amazing. I easily imagine the whole area is like that. It was still quite chilly when I arrived mid-April, and except for a few days, stayed nice and cool. Which I liked. I’m not one to rush summer. (I’m perfectly content to go from spring to fall.) And now as I prepare to depart France, I find myself also preparing to miss this special place.
I’ve spent two months adjacent Place Ducale, the big square in the hyper-center. Pedestrian streets branching off each side with block after block of shops, cafes, boulangeries, bookstores and chocolateries. My idea of heaven. My last city, Perpignan in the south of France, was quaint, sun-splashed charm. Charleville-Mezieres which I’ve come to call CM, is a wonderful mixture of modern society in old, stone buildings, located in very northern France near the Belgium border. The architecture is beautiful. The streets are very clean. The shopkeepers and service personnel are warm and friendly. Things CM and Perpignan have in common.
The big square hosts all sorts of festivals and events. Last month I was treated to The Feast of the Brotherhood, right outside my door. A food festival celebrating the 50 brotherhoods of the region. This weekend, the Fête de la bière (Beer Festival) takes place. Yes, I’ll be wandering around that one, too. It’s very cool to see the booth vendors and the public laughing and chatting each other up. I expect the music to be as good as the last festival, and there to be plenty of dancing. All this takes place just steps away from where I’m staying. (And inside my apartment I literally hear nothing.)
Yes, I really have loved it here. I’m picking up quite a bit of French. I had a few dates with a Frenchman. The butcher knows the cut of meat I like. A handsome neighbor holds the gate for me when I come into or leave the building. I walk everywhere (without traffic), and the streets are mostly flat. The neighbor teens offer me weed. I chat easily with all sorts of people. I’ve even looked at a few apartments to get an idea for a possible annual rental. Who knows what the future holds for me. But there’s a distinct possibility that I’ll be spending a lot more of it here.
I leave on Tuesday to spend a few days with my big sister in Florida. From there I head to Canada (Montreal, to be specific), where I’ll spend the rest of the year. But for now, I must say au revoir, CM. À la prochaine. J'ai passé un moment incroyable. [chef’s kiss]
Edit: I’ve stayed in two Airbnbs here and both were lovely. The hosts could not have been nicer or more accommodating. If you plan to be in the area let me know and I’ll gladly give you their details. Highly recommend.